The cuvee name ‘Lemon Krush’ diminishes how serious and complex, intriguing and generally fantastic this wine is, but I love the name anyway. A blend of 80-year-old vine Maderia Semillion with chardonnay and viognier. Skin and stalk fermentation, blending, crafting, lo-fi winemaking, clever mind of Andrew Wardlaw winemaker, and you’ve a perfect storm here.

Righteous, detailed, stellar wine of amazing texture, length, intensity, freshness and all-round unique styling. That texture, though… as fine as tannin gets, succulent, so long, cool, leafy acidity under preserved lemon flavours, lemongrass, green apple and so, so, so much exotic spice. This is an incredible wine. Unique. I’ve seen such few things like it. But, in saying that, it ticks so many boxes for high quality and compelling wine. Wowsers. A live one.

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